Wat Chedi Luang

Temple in Chiang Mai

2,568 viewsBy Willy Thuan · Living in Phuket since 1994

Wat Chedi Luang is hard to miss. It is right in the middle of the old city of Chiang Mai, and the chedi (stupa) at its centre is huge. Even in ruins, it dominates the temple grounds. It was built in the 15th century and once stood over 80 metres tall, before a big earthquake brought the top down. Now it is about 60 metres high, but still impressive. The base is square, made of old bricks, and partly ringed by elephant statues that add to its character. It has a raw, powerful presence.

Some temples hide behind gates and walls, but Wat Chedi Luang feels wide open. The grounds are open and easy to explore, with a bit of shade for a break. It is a calm place, even when a few tour groups pass through. Early morning or late afternoon is usually the quietest time to visit.

For nearly a century the temple held the Emerald Buddha, Thailand’s most sacred image, from 1468 until it was moved in 1551. The statue now sits in Wat Phra Kaew in Bangkok, and a jade replica was placed in the chedi’s eastern niche to mark the link.

The Main Viharn (Prayer Hall)

Near the entrance you will see the main viharn, the large wooden prayer hall. It is beautifully built, with a high roof and tall columns that lead your eye to the golden Buddha statue inside. The size of the statue and the symmetry of the hall make a strong impression as you step in. Most visitors stop to sit or kneel for a moment, even if they are not religious. It is that kind of space.

There is also a small table where you can light candles and incense, or donate a few coins. Take off your shoes before entering and dress respectfully, with covered shoulders and knees. These rules might sound obvious, but visitors new to Thai customs sometimes overlook them.

The Giant Tree and Wooden Temple

Behind the main chedi there is a smaller wooden hall that is easy to miss if you do not wander around. It stands in the shade of an enormous tree, one of the biggest I have ever seen on temple grounds. At first it might not look that big, especially next to the old chedi. Take a step back though, and the scale of the tree is clear. Locals believe the tree protects the city, and next to it is a small shrine for the city’s guardian spirit.

The wooden building beside it is simple and elegant, with clean lines and good proportions. In the late afternoon, when the light comes through the leaves, it feels quiet and timeless.

Useful Info

Wat Chedi Luang is open daily from 6 am to 6 pm. The entrance fee for foreigners is 40 baht, and Thai nationals enter free. The address is 103 Prapokkloa Rd, Si Phum, Chiang Mai 50200, right in the heart of the old city. It is easy to reach on foot or by bicycle if you are staying nearby. From further out, grab a tuk-tuk or songthaew.

Even partly ruined, the main chedi is still one of Chiang Mai’s most striking historic sites, and the whole temple feels like a quiet step back in time.

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