Phi Phi islands don’t need introduction anymore, Leonardo DiCaprio took care of this in 2000 with the movie ‘The Beach’ and the place just keeps on getting bigger and busier. As we all remember, a tsunami wiped out Phi Phi islands in 2004 . Since then and despite the promises of keeping Phi Phi small and manageable, it just grew bigger and definitely not better.
However, the young crowd travelling to Phi Phi Islands seems to love the islands so much, we decided to revisit it. The verdict? it’s crowded, especially at night, but the islands are truly beautiful… and a great place to party! (See some discounted prices for ferries between Phuket and Phi Phi)
The place is popular so it’s actually very easy to get there and every hotel will be able to arrange this for you. Usually transfer includes pick up from your hotels, but double-check anyway. If you have a rented car you can also park at the Rassada pier in Phuket town and buy a ticket right there. You also can check from this site for available discount tickets by Kohlife
(Yes you guessed it , ‘Koh ‘means ‘Island’ in Thai so it’s not always part of the name)
Phi Phi Don looks like an overgrown maze squeezed between 2 bays: Tonsai Bay where ferries arrive and Loh Dalum Bay where the main beach is. To imagine how walking down that maze feels like, picture the following: Tee-Shirt Shop, Tattoo Parlour, a bar, a dive center, Tattoo Parlour, a fast food, a travel agency, a massage parlour… repeat again and again. I’ve never seen so many tattoo shops per meter square. I’ve never seen so many cats either!
Most shops don’t open in the morning as they open late at night and a good part of the population of the island is out there exploring Maya Bay and the islands around. Another part is on the beach enjoying the soft sand and the beautiful scenery (if tide permits). The remaining tourists are probably still in bed trying to survive a massive hangover from one of these cheap ‘buckets’ that looked so cool the day before (read about it lower in the page)
apart from some fantastic cliffs and bays, Phi Phi is not really Thailand
In the afternoon the crowd starts to hang in the streets, shopping, drink too early or have some massage. There are plenty of small restaurants for all tastes but most look rather touristy. We tried a decent beachfront restaurant called ‘Tonsai Seafood’ which was quite good and ‘The Point Restaurant’ which was below average. Our best dining experience by far was at ‘Le Grand Bleu’ a long-established French restaurant serving a nice choice of French and Thai food at good prices.
At 9/10 pm Phi Phi suddenly explodes with life as bars start their fire shows, live bands and Muay Thai performances (Thai boxing). There are bars after bars after bars all along the main street and on the Loh Dalum bay where those popular fire shows take place. Young people all buy a ‘bucket’ on their way there and sit on the beach in front of a makeshift stage to enjoy or even take part to small fire shows. Music is loud and good and people dance on the beach, everyone seem to have the time of their life.
The general impression is that apart from some fantastic cliffs and bays, Phi Phi is not really Thailand. It’s a bit the Khao San of the south with a permanent Full Moon Party. Absolutely everyone who is not selling something is a farang (a foreigner). You will never see or hear of a Thai person saying “I’m going to spend a weekend on Phi Phi Island”. I also found the young Thais working on the island very smiling and helpful.
Note that there are some mosquitoes here and there, especially once the sun has set, but there are so many convenience stores and pharmacies around there is no need to carry your own repellent.
All around Phi Phi Don there are other beaches of different size, the best known one is Laem Tong beach where Holiday In Phi Phi and Zeavola resort enjoy a peaceful but remote holiday and the beautiful Loh Bagao beach further down (see map at the end of the page)
Here are the best places to see in Phi Phi islands. Of course since they are so popular they can be really busy so it is usually recommended to stay overnight in Phi Phi and try to reach them early morning to beat the crowds. This is particularly true for the famous Maya Bay from the movie ‘The Beach’. Read more…
Reaching Phi Phi Viewpoint is a bit challenging but if you go at your own pace it’s actually not too hard. Expect to sweat and maybe to be bitten by local mosquitoes each time to stop to breathe in a shade, they are obviously smart and they ambush themselves in strategic locations.
At the end of the first fly of stairs you will reach the Viewpoint Number 1 … and the ticket counter. It costs 30 baht from that point on.
Viewpoint Number 1 looks like a children playground with giant chickens and concrete hearts in case you like your selfie the cheesy way. My advice? Move on and follow the signs to Viewpoint Number 2. It says 5 minutes walk but it feels like a lot more. From viewpoint number 2 you will instantly recognize the postcard view of the 2 bays of Phi Phi. The place is superb and there is a shop selling drinks, snacks and ice creams to refill your batteries.
The place is superb but expect it to be busy or even crowded… there is not much to do on your own on Phi Phi island so everyone ends up there at one point.
There are hundreds of places to choose from on Phi Phi island… just walk along the few pedestrian walkways and you can pick as you go. It’s really a lucky draw. It’s more fun by the waterfront but this is just us, so we tried the following and they were good.
The day after:
Have you ever heard the expression ‘Same Same but Different’? it was probably coined here. ‘Phi Phi island’ tee shirts, short pants and light skirts, swim suits, bags… everything you need for a holiday on a small island. Don’t expect much originality but browsing is always fun, especially when there are not so much to do.
Beach party and street party… usual people walk from one to another and follow the music, the crowd and the atmosphere. Most popular seems to be :
Buckets are extremely popular in Phi Phi and you can find them everywhere after sunset. Usually a cheap mix of local whiskey (Sang Som), a red bull (you know what that is) and a mixer and ice in a small plastic bucket and a couple of straws. You can take this around as you party. As it’s sweet, cold and often use cheap local alcohol you don’t have the feeling you are drinking much and the Red Bull gives you a boost. Most people obviously get drunk much faster and much more than they think. Fun, apparently.
That’s a tough one… they are everywhere and they all claim the same thing: sterile environment and new needle for each customer, also Bamboo tattoos available. Follow your instinct but let us know if you can recommend one shop. I had a look at a couple of standard size tattoos and they cost between 5 to 10,000 baht and take 3 to 6 hours to execute.
We collected on the next page the necessary information if you are interested in Diving in Phi Phi Island
Renting a boat costs around 1,500 to 3,000 baht depending on what you want to visit. Here are the classic places:
To Phi Phi Leh and around
Then to the north of Phi Phi Don
Mostly young people, 25 -30 on average, coming here to enjoy the sun, the scenery, the beach on daytime and definitely the PARTY at night!