Tonsai Village, the Heart of Phi Phi Main Island
Tonsai Bay Village is a maze of small streets on Phi Phi Don, the largest of the Phi Phi Islands, consisting of two bays: Tonsai Bay on one side, where ferries drop you off, and Loh Dalum Bay on the other side, where the main beach is.
To imagine what walking down that maze feels like, picture the following: a T-Shirt shop, a tattoo parlour, a bar, a dive centre, a tattoo parlour, a fast food, a bar, a travel agency, a massage parlour; repeat again and again. I’ve never seen so many tattoo shops per meter square! I’ve never seen so many cats, either!
Most shops in Tonsai Bay don’t open in the morning but until late at night. It is probably because most of the island’s population is away exploring the islands. Other visitors enjoy the soft sand and the beautiful scenery (if tides permit). The remaining tourists are probably still in bed trying to get over a massive hangover from one of these cheap ‘buckets’ that looked so cool the day before.
In the afternoon, the crowd emerges to hang in the streets: shopping, drinking too early or having a massage. Plenty of small restaurants for all tastes and budgets, but most look somewhat touristy. I tried a decent beachfront restaurant called ‘Tonsai Seafood’, which was quite good and ‘The Point Restaurant’.
Phi Phi explodes with life from 9 pm as bars start fire shows, live bands and Muay Thai performances (Thai boxing). There are bars after bars all along the main streets but for the best party, aim at Loh Dalum Bay, where fire shows take place. Young people buy a ‘bucket’ on their way there and sit on the beach before a makeshift stage to enjoy or even participate in small fire shows. The music is loud and pretty good, making people dance on the beach. Everyone seems to have the time of their life.
The general impression is that Phi Phi is not real Thailand apart from some fantastic cliffs and bays. It’s a bit of the Khaosan of the south, with a permanent Full Moon Party. Anyone not selling something on Phi Phi is a Farang (a foreigner). You will never see or hear a Thai person saying: “I’m going to spend a weekend on Phi Phi Island”. On the other hand, the young Thais working on the island are very smiling and helpful.
There might be some mosquitoes, mostly once the sun has set, but many convenience stores and pharmacies on Phi Phi island sell cheap but effective repellent lotions and sprays.
Where to Stay on Tonsai Bay
Accommodation in the Tonsai area covers a wide range. At the budget end, there are dozens of hostels and guesthouses with dorm beds starting from around 300 to 500 THB per night. Places like Dormsin, Blanco Beach Bar, and Sweed Dee are popular with backpackers and solo travellers. Expect air conditioning, Wi-Fi, and shared bathrooms, but not much else. Mid-range hotels like Phi Phi Banyan Villa and ChaoKoh offer private rooms with pools, starting from around 1,500 to 3,000 Baht. At the higher end, PP Princess Resort and Phi Phi CoCo Beach Resort are proper beachfront resorts with pools, restaurants, and direct access to Loh Dalum Bay. One thing to keep in mind: Tonsai is noisy. Music from the beach bars on Loh Dalum carries across the village from about 10 pm to 2:30 am. Hotels on the Tonsai Bay side (south) tend to be quieter than those facing Loh Dalum (north). If sleep matters to you, ask for a room away from the beach side, or bring earplugs.
PP Princess Resort
PP Princess Resort sits right on Loh Dalum Bay, with 67 rooms across two floors. The resort has two pools (one with a swim-up bar), four restaurants, and direct garden access to the beach. It is about 300 metres from Tonsai Pier. The location puts you on the best swimming beach on the island while keeping the village just a few minutes’ walk away. Pool villas with semi-private pools are available for those who want a bit more. Read more.
Location: Loh Dalum Bay | Rooms: 67 | Pools: 2 | Restaurants: 4
Phi Phi Banyan Villa
Phi Phi Banyan Villa is a 3-star hotel named after the large banyan tree at its entrance. It is right in the heart of Tonsai, a 3-minute walk east from the pier along the beach road. The hotel has 62 rooms in two wings and faces Tonsai Bay. The real draw is the Banyan Fitness Centre, easily the best gym on the island, with a Muay Thai boxing ring, weight machines, steam rooms, saunas, and a yoga studio. Breakfast is served at the beachfront Tonsai Seafood restaurant across the road. Read more.
Location: Tonsai Bay | Rooms: 62 | Pool: 1 | Restaurant: 1
Phi Phi CoCo Beach Resort
Phi Phi CoCo Beach is a 4-star resort with 48 rooms on the western end of Loh Dalum Beach, about 1 km from Tonsai centre. That is a 10-minute walk along the beach or through the village. Far enough to escape the loudest bars at night but close enough to reach everything on foot. The beach here tends to be a bit calmer than the section closer to the fire show bars. One pool, one restaurant, and a fitness centre. Read more.
Location: Loh Dalum Beach | Rooms: 48 | Pool: 1 | Restaurant: 1
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