What to Do in the Similans?
The Similan Islands form a fabulous archipelago in the Andaman Sea, just 120 km northwest of Phuket Island. These small islands are so stunning; you don’t even need to be an excellent photographer to come back with amazing photos.
Most people visit the Similan Islands on a day trip tour from Phuket or Khao Lak. It’s a long day out: the speedboat ride takes around 60 to 90 minutes each way, so if you can, book a tour that leaves early. Arriving before the main wave of boats means you’ll have some of the most fabulous beaches nearly to yourself for the first hour or two, which is priceless.
How to Get to the Similans?
The Similans are open from October 15 to May 15. Time varies each year so always check before planning a day out there.
To get there, you should consider booking a tour that takes you around for some snorkelling first, then drop you on the main island (Island #4, Koh Similan), where a thatched-roof restaurant serves basic lunch. If you can afford it, try not to book the cheapest speedboat unless you are on a strict budget. You don’t want to travel like a bunch of sardines in a tin can. Of course, if you are a diver, you’ll have dozens of dive centres offering this destination as a day trip from Khao Lak or, even better, as a live-aboard cruise.
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The Islands
Similan comes from a Malay dialect word meaning nine. The park had originally nine islands numbered 1 to 9, but expanded to include two islands located a little further away in 1998: Ko Tachai and Ko Bon. Each island has a name and a number, covering 140 km2.
Island 1: Ko Hu Yong
Island 2: Ko Payang
Island 3: Ko Payan
Island 4: Ko Miang
Island 5: Ko Ha
Island 6: Ko Payu
Island 7: Ko Hin Pousar
Island 8: Ko Similan
Island 9: Ko Bangu
Island 10: Ko Bon, also known as Ko Talu
Island 11: Ko Tachai
(The two main islands are Ko Miang and Ko Similan.)
What to Do?
The main part of the archipelago consists of 9 islands, but you will only have time to visit 2 or 3. The first is very well known for its iconic landmark, made of giant boulders perched at the top of a hill overlooking the incredibly clear water of the bay below. You’ll arrive in the morning and will have just a bit of time to explore it and even climb on top of it, maybe one hour, but do it if you can; the view up there is worth it!
Climbing to the boulders isn’t too hard since there are steps and ladders to reach the top. Standing on this rock will give you a beautiful bird ‘s-eye view of the entire bay. The shadow of the boats floating above white sand will give you an idea of how clear the water is.
Your speedboat will probably make a second stop near another island where you can enjoy some great snorkelling. Water is always warm, and visibility is incredibly clear. It feels like flying above coral formations surrounded by thousands of colourful fishes. It would be best if you also got a chance to see sea turtles swimming around the boat.
3 Facts to remember not to get in trouble
- Do not feed the fish, even if they swarm around you and beg for some.
- Do not pick up any coral or sea life.
- Do not walk on the coral; swim!
Can You Still Sleep at the Similan Islands?
No. Since 2018, the Thai National Parks Department has banned all overnight stays at the Similan Islands: no more tents, no more bungalows, no resorts. The islands are strictly day-use only. The closest hotels are on the mainland in Khao Lak, about a 90-minute drive plus a 60 to 90-minute speedboat transfer each way, which is why most visitors book a Similan day trip package with pickup included.
When are the Similans open?
The Similan Islands are open from October 15 to May 15. Time varies each year, so always check before planning a day out there.
Useful tips:
Having a waterproof camera is worth it. Turtles are not shy, and you will effortlessly get a nice shot. The entire area is full of corals and tropical fish. It might not be bad to buy one of those waterproof floating bags; they are cheap.
On the not-so-fun side:
- Buy some motion sickness pills. Most companies will provide some, but better to be safe than sick, and it’s a long trip, so unless you are a sailor, take it; once you start to feel sick, it is not easy to stop it.
- Don’t sit at the front of the speedboat; it’s fun for 5 minutes while you are still in the calm waters, but it might become a real roller coaster ride, and your spine might never forget it. Don’t forget sunscreen, sunglasses AND a cap! The rear end of the boat is the most stable place, but you’ll be in the sun for more than two hours! If you like fantastic scenery but are worried about seasickness, consider a cruise to Phang Nga Bay instead.
Good to know about Similan Islands:
There is a National Park fee, but it is usually included in the speedboat fare. Most visitors book through a travel agent or online tour platform and get hotel pickup included. If you prefer to go on your own, drive to Thap Lamu pier near Khao Lak (roughly 90 minutes north of Phuket) and board a boat from there, which is usually a bit cheaper than a Phuket pickup package.
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This story was first published on May 11, 2011
The Similan Islands Through the Years
I first visited the Similan Islands in the late 1990s, only a few years after moving to Phuket. Back then, very few tourists made the trip. The speedboats were smaller, the ride was rougher, and when you arrived, you might find only two or three other boats anchored in the bay. I remember walking across the beach on Ko Miang and seeing nobody. The thatched restaurant on the island served fried rice and a cold drink, and that was about it.
Through the 2000s, the Similans started appearing in travel magazines and dive publications. Live-aboard diving trips from Khao Lak became popular, and the park began attracting serious divers from around the world. The snorkelling was extraordinary. The coral was in good shape, the water was absurdly clear, and you could swim with turtles without trying.
By the early 2010s, the crowds had arrived. Speedboat tours from Phuket multiplied, and on peak days, dozens of boats would line up at the same beaches. The coral around the most visited snorkelling spots started showing damage. In 2016, the park authorities permanently closed Ko Tachai (Island 11) because the reef was being destroyed by the sheer volume of visitors. It was a stunning island, and losing access to it was a real disappointment.
The biggest change came in 2018, when the government banned all overnight stays. No more tents on the beach, no more basic bungalows on Ko Miang. The park became day-use only. At the time, many locals in Khao Lak were upset because it hurt the multi-day tour business. But looking back, it was the right call. The beaches are cleaner now, and the coral has had time to recover in the areas that were being trampled.
Today, the Similans are still one of the most beautiful places I have visited anywhere in the world. The crowds are managed better than they were a decade ago, and the park fee increase has helped limit numbers. But it is a different experience from what it was in the 1990s. If you go, go early in the season (late October or November) when the water is calmest and the boats are fewest.
Insider Tips
After visiting the Similans many times over the years, here is what I tell friends who are planning their first trip:
- Book from Khao Lak, not Phuket. The pier at Thap Lamu is only 60 minutes by speedboat from the islands. If you book a Phuket pickup, you add a 90-minute van ride each way on top of the boat transfer. That turns a long day into an exhausting one. If possible, stay one night in Khao Lak before and after.
- Go early in the season. Late October and November have the fewest boats, the calmest seas, and water visibility that can reach 30 metres. By January and February, the islands are packed with tour groups.
- Do not sit at the front of the speedboat. I made this mistake once. The first 10 minutes are fun, and the next 50 are brutal. The back of the boat is slower and wetter but far more comfortable.
- Take seasickness pills before you board, not after. Once the nausea starts, pills barely help. Most tour operators hand them out at the pier, but bring your own just in case.
- Climb the rocks on Ko Similan. The viewpoint above the iconic Sail Rock boulder is a short climb with steps and ladders. Some people skip it because the group time on the island is short (about one hour). Do not skip it. The view from the top is the single best moment of the trip.
- Bring a waterproof phone pouch. The snorkelling is so good that you will regret not having a way to photograph it. Turtles are common and not shy.
- If you get seasick easily, consider Phang Nga Bay instead. The scenery is different (limestone karsts, not coral islands), but the water is sheltered and calm. No open-sea crossing required.
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