Mor Mu Dong Restaurant
Mor Mu Dong received a ‘Bib Gourmand’ rating from the new Michelin Guide for Phuket. Bib Gourmand means ‘friendly establishments that serve good food at moderate prices
Mor Mu Dong is quite an unusual restaurant in Phuket. If you enjoy eating off the beaten tracks where mostly locals go for a great lunch or dinner, Mor Mu Dong is your place. Every Phuket resident knows it, and you have to count the cars on the parking to know that something special is cooking here. People travel a long way to come to Mor Mu Dong. It’s so local and so good even Andrew Zimmern from ‘Bizarre Food’ had lunch here.
Mor Mu Dong is down-to-earth and back-to-basics, with a lot of charm for a lazy Sunday meal or even for dinner with friends after work. It is simple and rustic but delicious. You can choose to eat in small private wood ‘Salas’ built over the mangrove, or simply under the trees. It sounds fancy, but in reality, it’s not: concrete tables, plastic chairs, plastic plates, period.
A sala is a little wooden pavilion without walls, with just a thatched roof, and it’s a fun experience if you haven’t tried yet. You and your friends sit around a low table placed on a rug, with a view on the mangrove, enjoying a gentle breeze. A sala can accommodate six to twelve people around a single table. When the tide is low, you see more mud than water, but it still is fun for a very local dinner while watching hundreds of tiny little red crabs wandering around. Some large huts offer regular tall tables with real chairs if you are not ready for an entire meal sitting on the floor.
What to Eat?
The food is the reason people travel such a long way to reach Mor Mu Dong. The menu is extensive, serving a mix of Thai food and seafood. Many dishes are Phuket specialities, and they have a way to make it look delicious. While you are waiting, they will serve some slices of green fruits like guava and green mangoes plus a choice of fresh vegetables. That should get you in the mood. You’ll get to enjoy a beer with ice that always surprises or even shock foreigners.
Our favourites are Moo Kua Klua (pork belly), Pak Miang Goong Siah (green leaves with dry shrimps), Pak Good Salad (fern salad with squid), and if you can take it: Kaeng Prik Kraddok Moo (a very spicy pork curry).
Finally, what we came for arrives. ‘Pla Pao’ is a- steamed fish in a salt crust that takes no less than 30 minutes to cook. Something you usually don’t find in such local restaurant. It is genuinely delicious, soft and moist. We love its simple and delicate texture, and the taste of salt is just enough, no sauce needed (but some will be served).
How to Get to Mor Mu Dong
It’s not so easy to find. Take Chaofa Road east direction Chalong and try to follow the signs to the zoo. Once you see the traffic light, turn left to the zoo and continue for several kilometres direction ‘Palai Seafood’ which is another restaurant, but not as good. Just before reaching the Palai Seafood, you will see plenty of signboards pointing to the left. Follow them almost to the end of the road to find the entrance of the parking.
Mor Mu Dong Information
Location: 32/9 Soi Mu Dong, Chao Fah East, Chalong (past the zoo), Phuket
Open: 10:00 am – 9:30 pm
Phone: 088 766 1634