From A Forgotten Trading Street to a Cool Neighbourhood
For over a century, Song Wat Road quietly existed as one of Bangkok’s most anonymous streets. Running parallel to the famous Yaowarat Road in Chinatown, this 1.2-kilometre stretch was lined with neglected shophouses, empty warehouses, and small local businesses that few visitors ever noticed.
We’ll take you through the remarkable transformation of this once-forgotten trading hub into what Time Out magazine named the 39th coolest neighbourhood in the world.
The Anonymous Years
Until recently, Song Wat Road was completely off most people’s radar. The historic street, named after King Rama V, who literally “drew” its path on a map after a devastating fire in 1906, had fallen into quiet obscurity by the late 20th century.
The old shophouses that once housed Bangkok’s most important trading companies sat largely abandoned or severely neglected. We could find spice warehouses, hardware stores, and small homeware shops that catered exclusively to locals, but these businesses operated in virtual anonymity. The street’s decline began in the 1950s when Bangkok’s new container port opened, making Song Wat’s piers and warehouses obsolete.
The Trading Heritage
Before its decline, Song Wat Road served as Bangkok’s vital hub for rice and spice trade. These distinctive Sino-Portuguese shophouses were originally built as offices and warehouses for agricultural goods. Many of Thailand’s largest companies, including CP Group, Bangkok Bank, and ThaiBev, originated from small businesses on Song Wat Road during its trading heyday.
The Riverside Renaissance
What made Song Wat Road’s transformation possible was its prime riverside location along the Chao Phraya River. The change began around 2016 when the street became a canvas for international street artists. The most famous result was a mural featuring two colossal elephants painted by Belgian artist ROA, which helped bring attention to this underrated street.
The Made in Song Wat community initiative, launched by local resident Kiattiwat Srichanwanpen, played a crucial role in coordinating this renaissance. Starting with just 10 participating businesses, the group has grown to include over 60 establishments.
The Coffee and Restaurant Explosion
Once the first cafés proved successful, Song Wat experienced an explosion of food and beverage businesses. We now find everything from speciality coffee roasters like Song Wat Coffee Roasters to experimental venues like FV café. Thai restaurant E-ga serves home-style dishes, while Bad Poutine offers Canadian-inspired dishes with Thai twists.
What makes Song Wat’s transformation unique is how new businesses coexist with century-old establishments. We can still find Gu Long Bao, serving artisan steamed buns from a recipe passed down five generations, alongside Urai Braised Goose, which has been operating for 50 years.
Thanon Song Soem – Thailand’s Shortest Official Road!
Thanon Song Soem is a tiny 20-meter lane that branches off Song Wat Road in Bangkok’s Samphanthawong district. This micro-street is considered Thailand’s shortest official road, ending directly at a small pier on the Chao Phraya River.
The lane sits within the historic Song Wat area, which King Chulalongkorn built in 1892 after a major fire destroyed much of the Sampheng district. The king personally drew the road layout on a map with a pencil, giving Song Wat its name, meaning “he drew”.
Today, Song Wat Road features restored Sino-Portuguese shophouses, speciality coffee shops, art galleries, and the “Made in Song Wat” community initiative. The area earned recognition as one of Time Out’s 40 coolest neighbourhoods worldwide in 2023.
Lao Pun Tao Kong Shrine
Lao Pun Tao Kong Shrine is a historic Teochew Taoist shrine on Song Wat Road, dedicated to Pun Tao Kong, protector of market districts like nearby Sampeng. Founded by Chinese settlers during the early Rattanakosin era and later renovated in 2007, it sits inside the Peiing Chinese School compound behind a striking red arch gate with green dragons.
The shrine features guardian Fu Dogs, ceramic warriors, and murals of auspicious symbols, while inside are altars to Tua Laoia Kong and Pun Tao Kong. Locals pray for health and business luck, especially during the Chinese New Year and the lunar festival days.
Luang Kocha Itsahak Mosque
The mosque was established by Luang Kocha Itsahak, son of a Saiburi merchant. Luang Kocha Itsahak was a government officer at Krom Tha Khwa (the Department of Commerce and Foreign Affairs, responsible for contact with Western countries); his position was a Malay interpreter. He was responsible for trading and obtaining royal presents, i.e., gold and silver trees from states in the Malay Peninsula. His duties also included being an interpreter for ambassadors and the Siam royal court.
Luang Kocha was known by foreign Islamic merchants who traded in Siam. There were no mosques around at that time; it was difficult for them to perform religious rituals, so a piece of land of about 1 acre was offered to build a Muslim place of worship. In constructing the mosque, Luang Kocha’s children helped deliver bricks and stones from his old building in Thonburi. The building is in the European style, which was well-known at the time. It has been used to perform religious rituals ever since construction was completed.
Where to Eat in Song at Road
Naam 1608
Naam 1608 is one of those rare restaurants you don’t just stumble upon: you have to know it’s there. Hidden deep between Song Wat Road and Talad Noi, along a narrow riverside lane behind a Thai temple, this Thai restaurant sits quietly by the Chao Phraya River, offering a calm escape from the busy streets of Chinatown.
Address: 1608 Song Wat Rd, Samphanthawong, Bangkok 10100
Hours: 11 am – 11 pm
Phone: 091 936 1632
e-ga Lab
e-ga Lab serves traditional Thai cuisine with contemporary presentation in a beautiful converted heritage building on Song Wat Road. This restaurant focuses on authentic neighbourhood cooking using carefully selected local ingredients from various Thai communities. The menu features dishes like raw prawn salad, river prawns, and mi krop with traditional recipes sourced from different regions across Thailand.
The space combines vintage interior design with colourful modern touches, fitting perfectly into the historic Song Wat Road atmosphere. e-ga Lab also has a popular bakery section called A Pink Rabbit Cake Shop, offering artisanal cakes and Italian-style coffee alongside the Thai restaurant.
Address: 829 Song Wat Rd, Chakkrawat, Samphanthawong, Bangkok 10100
Phone: 081 565 2028
Hours: 8 am – 10 pm
Barbon
Barbon is on the third floor of Hostel Urby on Song Wat Road, featuring both an indoor space with concrete walls and an outdoor terrace overlooking the Chao Phraya River. The outdoor terrace is especially popular at sunset, offering panoramic views of the Bangkok skyline and river traffic below. Cocktails range from 190 to 400 baht, served in a space that combines vintage charm with modern industrial design. The rooftop location makes Barbon a standout destination for drinks with a view in Bangkok’s historic riverside district.
Address: 1222/1 Songward Road, Chakkrawat, Samphanthawong, Bangkok 10100
Hours: 3 pm – 12 am (Monday closes)
Phone: 092 249 7261
More Photos of Song Wat Road
Nearby Talad Noi
Just steps away from Song Wat Road lies Talad Noi, Bangkok’s oldest neighbourhood that perfectly complements your visit. This historic Chinese settlement predates Bangkok itself and offers a fascinating blend of 200-year-old mansions, vibrant street art, and traditional car part workshops. We can explore colourful murals by international artists like Alex Face, visit the Gothic-style Holy Rosary Church built in 1786, and discover the stunning So Heng Tai Mansion.
The narrow alleyways are filled with trendy cafés like Mother Roasters alongside century-old Chinese shrines and traditional food vendors. Both neighbourhoods can easily be explored together in a single morning, creating the perfect historic riverside walking tour.
Song Wat Road Map
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