Wang Lang Market

The Most Local Market Experience in Bangkok

Wang Lang Market is probably the most authentic local experience a traveller can have while staying in Bangkok. This old market on the Thonburi side of the Chao Phraya River has been feeding hospital staff, university students and nearby residents for generations. It sits directly opposite the Grand Palace and the National Museum, yet most tourists walk right past without knowing it exists. I came here expecting a typical market and left wondering why this place isn’t more famous.

The Street Good

The street food here is the real draw. You won’t find tourist menus or inflated prices. Vendors sell to office workers on lunch breaks and medical students, grabbing a quick bite between classes. Most dishes cost between 30 and 60 Baht. The variety is incredible. One stall fries catfish, the next one pounds papaya salad, and the one after that piles ready-made curries into metal trays.

I tried the hoy tod (crispy oyster omelette) served sizzling in a hot pan. The edges stayed crispy while I ate because the skillet kept everything warm. The pad sataw (stink beans fried with pork belly) had that funky southern Thai flavour that’s hard to find in central Bangkok. There are also roast pork stalls near the pier serving muu daeng with springy egg noodles.

Other than that, the market is also famous for its desserts, ranging from local Thai desserts such as coconut ice cream and kanom krok to famous Thai dessert brands like Bearhouse and Kamu.

Famous Restaurants Worth Finding

Several long-established restaurants have built serious reputations over the decades.

Koo Lib Heng (คูลิบเฮง)

Koo Lib Heng (คูลิปเฮง) is a legendary Isaan restaurant in Wang Lang Market that locals have been eating at for over 20 years. The name sounds Chinese, but the food is northeastern Thai with a twist. Their signature dish is khao pod tod (fried corn), which they invented. Battered sweet corn kernels come out crispy and golden, served with a sweet dipping sauce.

It’s so popular that the recipe spread to a sister restaurant called Kiew at Tha Phra Chan. Other must-orders include laab moo tod (fried minced pork), nam tok moo and tom saep. The restaurant gets packed at lunch with hospital staff. Read more

Tee Yai Hoy Tod has been serving crispy seafood pancakes for over 55 years. The restaurant sits in a narrow alley near the old Tesco Lotus. They have an extensive menu, but most people come for the hoy tod served on a sizzling hot plate. The sauce is their own recipe, and you can choose spicy or mild.

Som Tam Sida has been open for more than 50 years. The grandma at the front handles all the papaya salad pounding. They serve the full range of Isaan dishes, including laab pla duk (grilled catfish salad) and sai krok Isaan (fermented sausages). Most dishes run about 40 to 50 Baht.

Saimai specialises in Cantonese wonton noodles. The yellow egg noodles are rolled flat and thin with a springy texture. Each wonton contains a whole shrimp with a bit of minced pork.

Khao Soi Tem Soot serves northern Thai coconut curry noodles. The homemade rice noodles are soft and chewy, sitting in a thick spicy broth. The restaurant has been open for over 20 years.

Tub Tim Krob Wang Lang serves one of Bangkok’s best versions of this classic dessert. The crunchy water chestnuts coated in tapioca flour come in iced coconut milk.

Beyond the Food

The market sprawls through a maze of narrow alleys branching off Phra Nok Road. Beyond the food stalls you’ll find clothing shops, accessories, and a large section dedicated to vintage and second-hand items. Look for a green gate leading to a warehouse packed with pre-loved clothing. The prices are local, not tourist.

Fresh vegetables cost almost nothing here. Local herbs, morning glory, chillies and green mangoes fill the stalls closest to the pier. It’s a working market that happens to be interesting for visitors, not a market built for tourists.

What’s Nearby

Wat Rakhang sits just north of the market. This royal temple with its giant bronze Buddha statue is free to visit and rarely crowded. The Royal Barge Museum is a short walk away. On the opposite bank, you have the Grand Palace, Wat Pho and Wat Arun. The boat ride itself is worth the trip.

Bar 342

342 Bar is one of those rooftops you almost miss unless someone points it out. It’s located on the fifth floor of Baan Wanglang Riverside Hotel, right on the Thonburi side of the Chao Phraya River. It’s not high up, but the view is hard to beat, directly across the water, you’re facing the Grand Palace, and the golden spires of Rattanakosin. At sunset, the whole area glows. Read more

How to Get to Wang Lang Market

Wang Lang Market is conveniently located opposite the Grand Palace and not far from Khao San Road. The best way to reach it depends on where you’re staying.

By Boat from Sukhumvit, Silom, Siam or Ploenchit:

Take the BTS Skytrain to Saphan Taksin station (the last stop on the Silom Line). Walk down to Sathorn Pier, also called the Central Pier. From here, you have several options. The Chao Phraya Tourist Boat (Blue Flag) costs 45 Baht for a single trip or 150 Baht for an all-day pass. Boats leave every 30 minutes from 9 am to 7:15 pm. Get off at Prannok Pier (N10), also called Wang Lang Pier. The trip takes about 25 minutes, and you’ll pass ICONSIAM, Wat Arun and the Grand Palace along the way. The Orange Flag express boats are cheaper at 16 Baht and run more frequently. They stop at the same pier.

From the Grand Palace or Wat Pho:

This is the easiest route. Walk to Tha Chang Pier or Tha Maharaj Pier and take the cross-river ferry directly to Wang Lang Pier. The ferry runs from about 6 am to 7 pm and costs just 4.50 Baht. The crossing takes a couple of minutes.

From Khao San Road:

You can walk to Wang Lang Market in about 25 minutes. Head south along the river through the old town. Alternatively, walk to Phra Arthit Pier (N13) and take any southbound boat one stop to Prannok Pier.

By MRT:

Take the MRT Blue Line to Itsaraphap station. From there it’s about 1.8 km to the market. A motorbike taxi costs around 20 to 30 Baht and takes 5 minutes.

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