How a Forgotten Trading Street Became One of Bangkok’s Coolest Neighbourhoods
For over a century, Song Wat Road quietly existed as one of Bangkok’s most anonymous streets. Running parallel to the famous Yaowarat Road in Chinatown, this 1.2-kilometre stretch was lined with neglected shophouses, empty warehouses, and small local businesses that few visitors ever noticed.
We’ll take you through the remarkable transformation of this once-forgotten trading hub into what Time Out magazine named the 39th coolest neighbourhood in the world.
The Anonymous Years
Until recently, Song Wat Road was completely off most people’s radar. The historic street, named after King Rama V, who literally “drew” its path on a map after a devastating fire in 1906, had become mostly empty by the late 20th century.
The old shophouses that once housed Bangkok’s most important trading companies sat largely abandoned or severely neglected. We could find spice warehouses, hardware stores, and small homeware shops that catered exclusively to locals, but these businesses operated in virtual anonymity. The street’s decline began in the 1950s when Bangkok’s new container port opened, making Song Wat’s piers and warehouses obsolete.
The Trading Heritage
Before its decline, Song Wat Road served as Bangkok’s vital hub for rice and spice trade. These distinctive Sino-Portuguese shophouses were originally built as offices and warehouses for agricultural goods. Many of Thailand’s largest companies, including CP Group, Bangkok Bank, and ThaiBev, originated from small businesses on Song Wat Road during its trading heyday.
The Street Art and the Turnaround
What made Song Wat Road’s transformation possible was its prime riverside location along the Chao Phraya River. The change began around 2016 when the street became a canvas for international street artists. The most famous result was a mural featuring two colossal elephants painted by Belgian artist ROA, which helped bring attention to this underrated street.
The Made in Song Wat community initiative, launched by local resident Kiattiwat Srichanwanpen, played a crucial role in coordinating this renaissance. Starting with just 10 participating businesses, the group has grown to include over 60 establishments.
Cafés, Restaurants, and What Opened Next
Once the first cafés proved successful, more kept opening. We counted at least ten new coffee shops on our last visit. We now find everything from speciality coffee roasters like Song Wat Coffee Roasters to experimental venues like FV café. Thai restaurant E-ga serves home-style dishes, while Bad Poutine offers Canadian-inspired dishes with Thai twists.
What makes Song Wat’s transformation unique is how new businesses coexist with century-old establishments. We can still find Gu Long Bao, serving artisan steamed buns from a recipe passed down five generations, alongside Urai Braised Goose, which has been operating for 50 years.
Song Wat Lane
Son Wat Lane is a tiny 20-meter lane that branches off Song Wat Road and has become the busiest lane on the street, full of vintage shops and cafes.
The lane sits within the historic Song Wat area, which King Chulalongkorn built in 1892 after a major fire destroyed much of the Sampheng district. The king personally drew the road layout on a map with a pencil, giving Song Wat its name, meaning “he drew”.
Today, Song Wat Road features restored Sino-Portuguese shophouses, speciality coffee shops, art galleries, and the “Made in Song Wat” community initiative. The area earned recognition as one of Time Out’s 40 coolest neighbourhoods worldwide in 2023.
Where to Eat in and Around Song Wat Road
Kang Kaang Restaurant
Kang Kaang is a laid-back Thai restaurant on Song Wat Road, at the end of a narrow alleyway and overlooking the Chao Phraya River. The space occupies a converted house with partially removed walls, creating an open, casual setting. Inside, you’ll find mismatched tables, basic wooden chairs, and a small counter for ordering, with both indoor and outdoor seating offering direct river views.
Address: 1204 Song Wat Rd, Khwaeng Chakkrawat, Samphanthawong, Bangkok 10100
Hours: 11 am – 6 pm (closed on Monday)
Naam 1608
Naam 1608 is one of those rare restaurants you don’t just stumble upon: you have to know it’s there. Hidden deep between Song Wat Road and Talad Noi, along a narrow riverside lane behind a Thai temple, this Thai restaurant sits quietly by the Chao Phraya River, offering a calm escape from the busy streets of Chinatown.
Address: 1608 Song Wat Rd, Samphanthawong, Bangkok 10100
Hours: 11 am – 11 pm
Phone: 091 936 1632
e-ga LAB
e-ga Lab serves traditional Thai cuisine with contemporary presentation in a beautiful converted heritage building on Song Wat Road. This restaurant focuses on authentic neighbourhood cooking using carefully selected local ingredients from various Thai communities. The menu features dishes like raw prawn salad, river prawns, and mi krop with traditional recipes sourced from different regions across Thailand.
The space combines vintage interior design with colourful modern touches, fitting perfectly into the historic Song Wat Road atmosphere. e-ga Lab also has a popular bakery section called A Pink Rabbit Cake Shop, offering artisanal cakes and Italian-style coffee alongside the Thai restaurant.
Address: 829 Song Wat Rd, Chakkrawat, Samphanthawong, Bangkok 10100
Phone: 081 565 2028
Hours: 8 am – 10 pm
Barbon
Barbon is on the third floor of Hostel Urby on Song Wat Road, featuring both an indoor space with concrete walls and an outdoor terrace overlooking the Chao Phraya River. The outdoor terrace is especially popular at sunset, offering panoramic views of the Bangkok skyline and river traffic below. Cocktails range from 190 to 400 baht, served in a space that combines vintage charm with modern industrial design. The rooftop over the river makes Barbon a standout destination for drinks with a view in Bangkok’s historic riverside district.
Address: 1222/1 Songward Road, Chakkrawat, Samphanthawong, Bangkok 10100
Hours: 3 pm – 12 am (Monday closes)
Phone: 092 249 7261
Lim Lao Ngow Fishball Noodle
Lim Lao Ngow is one of our favourite street food stops in Bangkok’s Chinatown, and even though it’s not right on the main Yaowarat Road, it’s just a short 150-metre walk into a small side street. It’s easy to miss if you don’t know it’s there, but the Michelin Bib Gourmand sign hanging out front is a good clue; they’ve held the title for nine years in a row.
Address: 299, 301 Song Sawat Rd, Samphanthawong, Bangkok 10100
Hours: 4:30 pm – 9 pm
Phone: 081 640 4750
More Restaurants on Song Wat Road
Gu Long Bao 古笼包 Over 100 years old. Fourth-generation family business making Teochew steamed buns by hand. You can watch them fold the buns through the shop window. Pork, salted egg, sesame, taro, and plant-based options.
Address: 983 Song Wat Rd | Hours: 9 am – 6 pm (Sunday from 10 am)
Urai Braised Goose (Urai Han Palo) Michelin Bib Gourmand. Teochew-style braised goose with Chinese five-spice, served with rice, clear soup, and tangy dipping sauce. Over 60 years old, family-run. They prepare whole geese each morning and sell out regularly. Go early or call ahead.
Address: 935 Song Wat Rd | Hours: 10 am – 1 pm, then 4 pm – 7 pm
Nai Yong Noodle Duck noodle soup with rich herb-infused broth. They’ve been perfecting this for decades. Opens at 10 am but usually sells out by noon. Don’t come late.
Address: 142 Song Wat Rd | Hours: 10 am – sold out
Khanom Chip A Liang Hand-folded dumplings with minced pork and vegetables. Over 30 years old, started as a street cart. The tangy aromatic dipping sauce is what makes it.
Address: 25 Song Wat Rd | Hours: Early morning – sold out
SongViet at SongWat Vietnamese street food from the Maison Saigon group. They brought chefs and recipes directly from Ho Chi Minh City. Saigon-style dishes done properly.
Thai Kee Lim Teashop is a family-run Chinese tea shop with dozens of varieties. Not a restaurant, but worth stopping in to see Song Wat’s trading heritage still alive.
Address: 116 Song Wat Rd
Best Cafés on Song Wat Road
Terroir BKK is a well-known Thai roaster with a slow-bar experience in a renovated loft-style building. Single-origin pours, serious coffee. One of the first speciality coffee places on the street.
Address: 1218 Song Wat Rd | Hours: 10 am – 5 pm (until 5:30 pm weekends)
Local Boys Coffee Industrial-meets-cyberpunk décor. Younger crowd. They do adventurous drinks like Peanut Butter Coffee and something called Cybernetic Cherry Blossom. Not for purists, but fun.
Address: 994 Song Wat Rd | Hours: 8 am – 5 pm
Koff & Bun Speciality coffee paired with croissants and steamed buns. Laid-back atmosphere, good beans sourced from different origins.
Address: 979 Song Wat Rd | Hours: 10:30 am – 6 pm (closed Monday)
F.V Song Wat Creative Thai fruit drinks and seasonal granitas in a quirky shophouse. Try the watermelon granita with dried fish and crispy shallots. Sounds strange, works well.
Address: 827 Song Wat Rd | Hours: 10 am – 7 pm
Choch SongWat, a minimalist café in a century-old building. Small-batch roasted beans with both speed bar and slow bar options, depending on how much time you have.
Address: 1192 Song Wat Rd | Hours: 10 am – 6 pm (until 7 pm Fri-Sat)
Cache Cache Pâtisserie Parisian-style pastries hidden down Shun Lee Alley. You have to look for it. Artisanal cakes and Italian-style coffee in a small, quiet space.
Address: 878/2-3 Shun Lee Alley | Hours: 10 am – 6 pm (closed Tuesday)
Bukowski & Co. Secret library atmosphere with old books lining the walls. Good espresso. The kind of place where you end up staying longer than planned.
Address: 88 Song Wat Rd | Hours: 10 am – 6 pm
What to Do on Song Wat Road
Analog Space & Vintage Shop
Analog Space & Vintage Shop occupies a century-old building on Song Wat Road in Bangkok’s Chinatown. The vintage collective houses multiple businesses: หนวดกล้องฟิล์ม (a second-hand film camera shop with Japanese imports), Khong Suay (European vintage home décor), a vinyl record shop, and a vintage clothing store. The owners have curated items over decades, preserving the building’s original character whilst adding modern conveniences.
Address: 1452 Song Wat Rd, Khwaeng Chakkrawat, Khet Samphanthawong, Bangkok 10100
Hours: 10 am – 10 pm
Phone: 089 128 7796
Wat Pathum Khongkha Ratchaworawihan
Wat Pathum Khongkha sits at the end of Song Wat Road, where Talad Noi meets Bangkok’s trendiest new street. This royal temple dates back to the Ayutthaya period and carries a dark history as a royal execution ground. Prince Kraisorn was executed here for rebellion against King Rama III. Inside, the ordination hall houses a Buddha image in royal attire, and the sermon hall doors feature original gold leaf paintings from the early Rattanakosin period. The canal out front is sacred ground where ashes of cremated royals and white elephants were scattered.
Lao Pun Tao Kong Shrine
Lao Pun Tao Kong Shrine is a historic Teochew Taoist shrine on Song Wat Road, dedicated to Pun Tao Kong, protector of market districts like nearby Sampeng. Founded by Chinese settlers during the early Rattanakosin era and later renovated in 2007, it sits inside the Peiing Chinese School compound behind a striking red arch gate with green dragons.
The shrine features guardian Fu Dogs, ceramic warriors, and murals of auspicious symbols, while inside are altars to Tua Laoia Kong and Pun Tao Kong. Locals pray for health and business luck, especially during the Chinese New Year and the lunar festival days.
Luang Kocha Itsahak Mosque
The mosque was established by Luang Kocha Itsahak, son of a Saiburi merchant. Luang Kocha Itsahak was a government officer at Krom Tha Khwa (the Department of Commerce and Foreign Affairs, responsible for contact with Western countries); his position was a Malay interpreter. He was responsible for trading and obtaining royal presents, i.e., gold and silver trees from states in the Malay Peninsula. His duties also included being an interpreter for ambassadors and the Siam royal court.
Luang Kocha was known by foreign Islamic merchants who traded in Siam. There were no mosques around at that time; it was difficult for them to perform religious rituals, so a piece of land of about 1 acre was offered to build a Muslim place of worship. In constructing the mosque, Luang Kocha’s children helped deliver bricks and stones from his old building in Thonburi. The building is in the European style, which was well-known at the time. It has been used to perform religious rituals ever since construction was completed.
More Photos of Song Wat Lane
More Photos of Song Wat Road
Talad Noi
Just steps away from Song Wat Road is Talad Noi, Bangkok’s oldest neighbourhood. This historic Chinese settlement predates Bangkok itself. You’ll find 200-year-old mansions, street art by artists like Alex Face, and traditional car part workshops all on the same narrow lanes. We can explore colourful murals by international artists like Alex Face, visit the Gothic-style Holy Rosary Church built in 1786, and discover the stunning So Heng Tai Mansion.
The narrow alleyways are filled with trendy cafés like Mother Roasters alongside century-old Chinese shrines and traditional food vendors. Both areas work well together in a single morning if you don’t mind the heat. Start early.
Song Wat Road Map
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