A Forgotten Landmark by the River
The Old Customs House Bangkok is one of those places that used to feel like a secret. Right on the Chao Phraya River in Bangrak district, just next to the iconic Mandarin Oriental Hotel and directly opposite the massive IconSiam shopping mall, this beautiful European-style building sat quietly for decades, long after it had any official use. We visited a few times over the years, always amazed at how such an important piece of history could be hiding in plain sight, abandoned and slowly fading.
Built for a New Era
Built in 1888 during the reign of King Rama V, the Old Customs House was designed by an Italian architect and originally served as the first customs office in the capital. Back when Bangkok was starting to open up to international trade, this spot was the gateway for goods entering Siam by river. It was a symbol of modernisation, and a sign that Bangkok was
Left Behind and Overgrown
But over time, like many grand buildings from that era, the Old Customs House got forgotten. The customs office moved elsewhere, and for years the structure was left to crumble. A fire damaged part of the roof, and nature slowly took over. You could still see the elegance in the arches and old brickwork, but vines had crept over the walls, and the inside was completely gutted. It had this eerie, cinematic feel — quiet, dusty, and full of echoes.
A Favourite Spot for Photos
We came across the Old Customs House during a photo shoot one morning. Someone was doing pre-wedding shots and said this was one of the top spots in town for those romantic, vintage-style photos. Despite the decay, or maybe because of it, the Old Customs House had this unique charm that worked beautifully for photography. The light coming in through broken windows, the flaking walls, and the river just behind it — it all added up to something special.
Back then, you couldn’t officially go inside the Old Customs House, but the fence was often unlocked or left open, and people slipped in quietly. There was no signage, no guards, nothing. Just a magnificent ghost of a building and the occasional crew setting up lights and cameras. We wandered through with care — the floors were half collapsed, and birds flew out from the rafters — but it was worth it.
A New Chapter Begins
For a long time, locals and photographers kept hoping the building would be restored. Rumours came and went about turning it into a museum, a gallery, or a boutique hotel. Then, a few years ago, the news finally came out: the property was being redeveloped as a luxury hotel, The Langham Bangkok Hotel. As of now, the restoration is well underway, with the structure being carefully rebuilt to match the original architecture. They’ve kept the historical façade and are bringing new life into the old bones.
Still Telling Its Story
Part of me is glad it’s getting a second life. It really deserves more than being a forgotten photo backdrop. But I do feel a little nostalgic about the time when it was just sitting there, beautiful and broken, with no signs, no crowds, just whispers of its past.
If you’re walking along the Chao Phraya near Bang Rak, you’ll still see the building covered in scaffolding. Soon it’ll open its doors again — not as the quiet, crumbling relic we once snuck into, but as a polished hotel. The charm will be different, but hopefully, they keep some of that old soul intact.
The Old Customs House Bangkok might not be a secret anymore, but it still tells a story — one worth remembering, even as it changes.