Discovering Bangrak: Bangkok’s Old Riverfront District
Bangrak is one of those areas in Bangkok that quietly holds some of the city’s richest stories. Stretching along the eastern bank of the Chao Phraya River, just south of Chinatown and north of Sathorn, Bangrak has long been a place where cultures meet. I’ve walked its streets dozens of times, and every visit still brings something unexpected: an abandoned riverside warehouse, or a tiny street kitchen with incredible food, and some amazing Michelin Restaurants.
The Geography of Bangrak
Bangrak sits on the eastern bank of the Chao Phraya River, bordered by Samphanthawong to the north and Sathon to the south. It stretches from the riverside around the Mandarin Oriental and Assumption Cathedral, across Charoen Krung Road, and into parts of lower Silom. Some key areas within Bangrak include the historic European quarter, the beginning stretch of Silom Road — including landmarks like Wat Khaek (Sri Maha Mariamman Temple) — and the early section of Charoen Krung. While nearby places like River City Bangkok are often associated with Bangrak, they technically fall just outside its boundary in the Samphanthawong district. This overlap often confuses visitors, but it’s part of what makes the area feel so layered and interconnected.
Where Bangkok First Met the World
Bangrak was once the main entry point for foreign traders and diplomats in the 19th century. This stretch of the river was where European embassies first set up in Siam, including the French, Portuguese, and British missions. You can still see their old buildings around Charoen Krung Road. The area became known as the “European quarter,” and the architectural influence is still visible today.
Just walking around the Assumption Cathedral and nearby schools, you’ll spot colonial-style buildings with wooden shutters, quiet courtyards, and arched verandas that look straight out of a European town — all gently weathered by tropical sun and rain.
Charoen Krung Road: Bangkok’s First Paved Road
Charoen Krung cuts through the heart of Bangrak and has its own claim to fame as Bangkok’s first paved road. It was built in the 1860s to accommodate the growing foreign presence. These days, the road is lined with everything from family-run shophouses and goldsmiths to hip cafes and art galleries popping up in old buildings.
One place I always return to is the Thailand Creative & Design Centre (TCDC), set inside the renovated Grand Postal Building. It’s a great example of how Bangrak is blending old and new — historic bones with a creative, modern edge.
The Old Customs House and the Riverfront
Bangrak is also home to the Old Customs House, one of my favourite historic buildings in Bangkok. It’s just next to the Mandarin Oriental and directly opposite IconSiam. The building sat abandoned for decades, slowly crumbling, until its recent restoration project began. It’s now being converted into a luxury hotel, but for years it was a hauntingly beautiful riverside relic — a popular spot for local photographers and pre-wedding shoots.
Just nearby is the charming Oriental Pier, one of the city’s oldest river piers. It’s still used by the Chao Phraya Express Boat and gives you a lovely view back across to the glimmering towers of IconSiam.
A Place for Food Lovers
Bangrak is also home to some of Bangkok’s most acclaimed restaurants, including several that have earned Michelin recognition. Leading the list is Le Du, which recently held a Michelin star and is located just across the border in Silom but often included in Bangrak experiences due to its proximity. Inside Bangrak proper, Le Du Kaan continues the fine dining vision with creative Thai cuisine. Another nearby Michelin-recommended spot is Prachak Pet Yang, a legendary duck noodle restaurant on Charoen Krung Road that’s been operating since 1909. It’s casual, affordable, and incredibly consistent — always a queue, always worth it.
If you’re exploring the area on foot, make time for Jok Prince, just past the Bangrak Bazaar. It’s a Michelin Bib Gourmand pick known for its smoky congee with crispy pork. The shopfront is modest, but the flavour is anything but. These places sit right alongside long-standing local favourites serving roast meats, Thai-Chinese soups, and spicy rice plates — a perfect stretch for food lovers who like variety.
Bangrak is also known for its food, especially around Soi Charoen Krung 42 and 44. You’ll find everything from roast duck noodles to Thai-Muslim curry rice and Chinese herbal soups. There’s no shortage of long-running family restaurants, some with recipes passed down through generations. If you’re lucky, you might stumble into one of the alleyways where locals still make hand-pulled noodles or fresh rice flour pancakes.
Where to Eat in Bangrak
- Le Du – Michelin-starred modern Thai fine dining by Chef Ton, located on Silom Soi 7 near the BTS Chong Nonsi station.
- 100 Mahaseth – Nose-to-tail Thai cuisine in a contemporary setting; a Michelin-recognised favourite just off Charoen Krung.
- 80/20 – Innovative Thai tasting menus that have earned it a Michelin star, focusing on local ingredients and bold flavours.
- Benjarong Bangkok – Baan Dusit Thani – Elegant Thai fine dining in a restored traditional house on Saladaeng Road, combining royal recipes with modern presentation.
- Krua Je Ngor – A long-time favourite for Thai-Chinese seafood, known for fresh ingredients and signature dishes like steamed seabass and black pepper crab.
- Baan Phadthai – A stylish spot offering a gourmet version of Thailand’s most famous noodle dish.
- Mezzaluna – A two-Michelin-starred fine dining restaurant on the 65th floor of Lebua State Tower, offering modern European tasting menus with sweeping views of the Chao Phraya River.
- Baan Suriyasai – Refined Thai cuisine inspired by Rama V–era recipes, served in a beautifully restored century-old house on Surawong Road.
- Baan Somtum – Casual and affordable Isan-style dining with an extensive som tam menu; Bib Gourmand-rated by the Michelin Guide.
- Prachak Pet Yang – Famous for roast duck noodles; operating since 1909 and still going strong.
- Jok Prince – Michelin Bib Gourmand pick known for its smoky pork congee.
- Thanying Restaurant – Refined royal Thai cuisine served in a peaceful setting near the Sri Maha Mariamman Temple.
- Harmonique – Thai food in a charming, slightly cluttered old house near the river.
- Lek Seafood Bangrak – Classic Thai seafood just outside the Bangrak Market area, popular with locals.
Where the Old City Still Breathes
What I love about Bangrak is that it hasn’t been completely cleaned up or rebranded. Sure, there are a few boutique hotels and coffee shops now, but it still feels real, lived-in, layered, and full of stories. It’s one of those places where Bangkok’s complicated mix of cultures, histories, and everyday life still shows through clearly.
If you’re walking from Sathorn or taking the boat from Tha Tien, give yourself time to wander. Step off the main road, walk toward the river, and let the place surprise you. Bangrak isn’t loud about what it has, but if you look around, you’ll see that almost every corner has something to tell.
