Sartoria by Chef Paulo Airaudo

Amazing Fine Dining in Ploenchit, Bangkok

Sartoria by Paulo Airaudo is a hidden gem perched on the 56th floor of Bangkok’s Empire Tower, offering a unique Italian fine-dining experience. Despite its unassuming entrance, the restaurant reveals an elegant setting with panoramic views of the city skyline and Bang Krachao Island in the distance.

The entrance sits discreetly on the same floor as the new Le Du Kaan we recently reviewed, but it’s easy to miss—there’s no name above the door, no flashy signs. Just a quiet hallway and a beautiful dining room waiting on the other side. It really feels like you’re stepping into a secret place everyone else missed.

We were welcomed by a friendly team at the reception and taken to our table. Unlike most venues located on high floors in Bangkok that promote the views, our table didn’t face the skyline. Instead, we were seated directly in front of the most impressive open kitchen we’ve ever seen—four massive cooking stations and what looked like a dozen cooks and chefs, all working in a kind of effortless harmony. It felt like walking into a live TV show, except quieter and more elegant.

Watching them was part of the experience. Just before the meal started, one of the chefs invited us to the kitchen to introduce the ingredients—seasonal fruits, seafood, and herbs, many sourced from Japan. It was a casual walk-through, not a formal presentation, and that’s something we really appreciated. No long speeches, just a little context about what was going into our five-course meal.

Each dish was presented by the chefs themselves, one by one. Again, nothing too long or overexplained. Just enough to know what was on the plate and where it came from. We’ve been to restaurants that turn every dish into a lecture—this wasn’t that. It felt natural, unpretentious, and very well-paced.

We already knew Chef Paulo Airaudo’s reputation, so expectations were high. He’s from Argentina, trained in some of Europe’s top kitchens (Arzak, The Fat Duck, Magnolia), and currently holds multiple Michelin stars—two for Amelia in San Sebastián, one for Noi in Hong Kong. But what we had that night at Sartoria went beyond what we anticipated.

Every dish told its own little story—visually beautiful, full of contrasts, and with layers of flavour that changed with every bite. We started with Hamachi paired with crunchy kohlrabi, kombu, shiso, and sea grapes. Then came Duck Cappelletti, wrapped like little parcels of warmth, served with thyme and duck jus. The Risotto Carabinero was a standout: bright green from the parsley, dotted with orange carabinero prawns and slivers of kumquat—bold and delicate at the same time. The Kinmedai came with a crisp skin and sat in a subtle champagne sauce with corn and pearl onion, and dessert arrived in the form of The Apple, built around salted caramel granita and finished with a drizzle of 40-year-old balsamic.

Wine pairing is fully part of the experience here. While the list leans heavily toward Old World wines, the sommelier kept things interesting by weaving in some surprises. We started with a Vouvray Brut 2020, which was crisp and refreshing—great with the hamachi. For the seafood courses, especially the Kinmedai, we were poured a glass of Gris de Koshu 2023, a Japanese white that’s floral, light, and worked beautifully with the softer flavours.

Later, the Lunae Colli di Luni Vermentino 2018 added a slightly richer, fruitier note, and for the duck cappelletti, we moved into deeper territory with the Eugenio Bocchino Tom Barbera d’Alba 2015—bold, earthy, and just the right amount of structure. Each glass felt intentional, not just thrown in as an afterthought. We’re not wine experts, but we can say this: it made the whole meal feel even more complete.

Even the room itself feels designed to tell a story. Inspired by Italian tailoring (sartoria means “tailor shop”), the layout is clean and balanced, with warm materials, rich upholstery, and tiny details—like the mosaic tilework—that reference Florence. There’s a sense of rhythm and structure, even in how the dishes are served and the staff move around.

We left impressed, not only by the food, but by how everything felt so deliberate without being stiff. Sartoria isn’t trying to show off. It’s just very, very good at what it does.

 5-course Menu

Amuse Bouche

Hamachi with Kohlrabi, Kombu, Shiso, and Sea Grapes
Delicately arranged in a floral shape, this hamachi dish is served with crisp kohlrabi, kombu, sea grapes, and tiny shiso flowers, showcasing a balance of Japanese precision and Mediterranean flair.

Duck Cappelletti with Thyme and Duck Jus
Delicate hand-folded pasta filled with tender duck, served in a light sauce infused with thyme and finished with a rich duck jus. A refined take on a traditional Italian comfort dish.

Risotto Carabinero with Parsley and Kumquat
A vivid green parsley risotto served with sweet, tender carabinero prawns and thin slices of kumquat. The bold colour and citrus notes bring balance to the rich seafood flavour in this beautifully plated course.

Kinmedai with Mais, Pearl Onion, and Champagne Sauce
Perfectly seared kinmedai (golden eye snapper) served with a light corn purée, sweet pearl onions, and a delicate champagne foam. The crispy skin adds texture to the tender fish in this elegant course.

The Apple with Salted Caramel Gelato and 40-Year Balsamic Vinegar
A playful and refined dessert combining smooth salted caramel gelato, aged balsamic vinegar, and crisp apple elements. Delicate garnishes add texture and a hint of floral aroma to this creative final course.

Petits Fours

Star Wars Closing

As a closing, we enjoyed with a big smile the Darth Vader jellies made with an excellent 12-year-old Whisky, since Chef Paolo, just like us, is a Star Wars fan.

Sartoria Photos

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