From A Quiet Residential Enclave to Bangkok’s Coolest Café District
Ari is one of my favourite areas in Bangkok for a slow afternoon. It’s north of Siam on Phahonyothin Road, about four stops on the BTS from Siam station, maybe 10-15 minutes. Close enough to get to easily, far enough to feel like a different city. The streets are quieter, the trees are bigger, and nobody’s in a rush.
For decades, Ari was Bangkok’s quiet secret
I first came to Ari maybe ten years ago to visit a friend who lived here. Back then there wasn’t much reason to come unless you knew someone. It was residential, a bit boring honestly. Nice trees, old houses, not much else. You’d walk past the BTS station and think “this is it?”
The Quiet residential years
Ari used to be for government workers and families. Big trees, low-rise houses, and a few noodle shops near the station. Soi Ari and Soi Ari Samphan were the main streets, but there was nothing to draw you in. Some state offices are still deeper in the district. It had that practical, unglamorous feel of a neighbourhood people lived in because rent was reasonable and the commute was easy.
What Ari always had going for it
Even before the cafés arrived, Ari made sense. The BTS connection is excellent. Chatuchak is two stops north, Siam is four stops south. The side streets were already walkable and shaded. And the food was always there. The snack stalls around the station, the boat noodle shops, the random aunties selling khao man gai. That stuff predates the hipster coffee by decades.
The Ari Renaissance
Sometime in the early 2010s, things started shifting. Young Thais and creative types began moving in, and the first wave of cafés opened in converted shophouses. Places like Porcupine Café and Casa Lapin set the tone early. They kept the old buildings, added good coffee, and didn’t try too hard. That became the Ari style: low-key, a bit scruffy, nothing flashy.
The coffee and restaurant explosion
Now Ari has more cafés than I can count. Some favourites: Ceresia for serious espresso, Pacamara for reliable brunch, and About Ari if you want to sit outside. For food, Soulmate Boat Noodle is an institution. Took Lae Dee does solid Thai comfort food, nothing fancy. If you want something newer, Ari has plenty of small chef-run spots, but they open and close fast, so check before you go.
The best approach is to start at Ari BTS, walk down Soi Ari, turn into the smaller lanes when something looks interesting, and see where you end up. That’s how Ari works. No plan, just wander.
Where to Eat and Drink in Ari
Cafés
Nana Coffee Roasters – The most famous coffee spot in Ari. Converted house with a big garden, speciality single-origin pour-overs, and the “Blueberry Bomb” brioche that everyone photographs. Busy on weekends. Coffee from 150 Baht.
Coffee No. 9 – Small kiosk, no frills, great coffee at local prices. Try the “Orangano” (orange coffee). Always a queue of regulars. 60-90 Baht.
Qraft – Tiny minimalist space for matcha lovers. The “Impossible Matcha” and yuzu croissant are worth the visit. 150-250 Baht.
Restaurants
Fishmonger – British-style fish and chips using Thai-caught fish in a white wooden house. Sustainable seafood is nearly always in a queue. 400-600 baht per person.
Lay Lao – Michelin Bib Gourmand Isan food. Deep-fried squid, som tum with fresh crab, and grilled pork shoulder. Refined but not fussy. 300-500 Baht.
Thung Chiang Mai – Small family-run spot for Northern Thai food. Better khao soi than the famous queues elsewhere, and cheaper. 80-150 Baht.
Bars
Kenny’s – Pizza and natural wine, open until 3 am. Loud, casual, popular with chefs and night owls. Pizzas 300-500 Baht.
Dok Kaew House Bar – Thai craft beer in a creaky old wooden house with a slightly spooky atmosphere. Rotating taps from local brewers, good bar snacks. Beers 200-300 Baht.
Old and new living side by side
What I like about Ari is that the old stuff didn’t disappear. The street food aunties are still there. The boat noodle shops still have queues at lunch. You can get a 50 baht meal and a 180 baht flat white on the same street. The new places moved into old buildings instead of tearing them down, so the neighbourhood still feels like itself.
It’s not polished like Thonglor. It’s not touristy like Khao San. It’s just a nice Bangkok neighbourhood that happens to have really good coffee now.
Ari right now
Ari works best as a half-day trip. Take the BTS, walk around for a few hours, eat, drink coffee, leave. You don’t need a plan. The neighbourhood is small enough that you’ll find things by accident.
If you’re staying in Bangkok for a few days and want a break from malls and temples, Ari is an easy escape. It’s not a must-see attraction, but it’s the kind of place that makes you like Bangkok more.
More Photos of Ari District
Ari District Map
Popular Streets of Bangkok
