Chinese Red Pork Rice in Chinatown Bangkok
Xie Lao Yee Hor opened in 1949 and has become a Chinatown Bangkok institution known for one specific thing: khao moo daeng (red pork rice) done properly. The shop sits at 59 Plaeng Nam Road in Yaowarat in a small, hot space where the cooking happens right where you eat.
The Black Egg and The Pork
The signature here is the black egg. They boil duck eggs in spices for hours, turning the whites dark whilst keeping the yolks runny. The egg is soaked in intense herbs that give it the black colour. The texture is chewy, and the flavour has that braised, herbal depth you get from proper Chinese five-spice cooking.
The red pork itself is solid. The sauce is perfect, savoury and not too sweet, which sets it apart from the overly sugary versions you find elsewhere. The meats are good and you get served super quickly. The crispy pork has proper crackling on top, though the fat can be blubbery. The Chinese sausage (goon chiang) comes with most plates and adds a sweet, fatty punch.
Price and Atmosphere
Prices sit around 50 baht per plate. The mixed plate with red pork, crispy pork, Chinese sausage and black egg will set you back about 100 baht. The shrimp wontons are worth ordering on the side.
It can be chaotic, but it’s fun to watch. Better to sit outside because inside the restaurant is super hot as they are doing the cooking there. The shop does massive delivery business, so expect to see Lineman riders coming and going constantly.
Getting There
Open 08:30-16:00 daily. Get there before noon if you want to avoid the lunch rush.
Take the MRT to Wat Mangkon Station, exit 1, then walk towards Plaeng Nam Road. The shop has no English sign, so look for the small storefront with a pink awning and brown plastic stools out front. It sits next to a gold shop. There’s a red and white vertical Chinese sign on the neighbouring building that helps mark the area. Parking in the area is difficult.
This is old-school Yaowarat cooking. They’ve been making the same dishes the same way for over 70 years and there’s no reason to change anything.
More Photos of Xie Lao Yee Hor
Xie Lao Yee Hor Info
Location: Chinatown – Yaowarat Road
Address: 59 Plaeng Nam Rd, Samphanthawong, Bangkok 10100
Hours: 8:30 am – 4 pm
Phone: 094 419 8731
Price: Cheap
Xie Lao Yee Hor Map
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